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Drive Line "Clunk" Investigation

433K views 713 replies 160 participants last post by  cickr  
#1 ·
I brought the obvious low speed, drive line "clunk" noise to the the attention of my dealer (Morton's in Virginia, USA). They've pulled their demo bike from further test rides and are investigating the noise in their service department. Further, I've been told by Sales that if BMW determines a production problem with this noise... they will stop production to fix it.

Good news to me... perhaps not to some eager buyers.
 
#3 ·
Paul, you lucky b@st@rd! You obviously have a GTL that doesn't "clunk"! :D

You would know if you had it. VERY obvious at low speeds, like coming to stop in traffic and pulling away (slowly). IMO, it's related to drive line lash.
 
#5 ·
Definitely. You are a lucky man... in many ways! :)

From what I'm reading here, some "clunk"... and some don't. Have not read of any developing the "clunk" later on. Have read that those that "clunk" get worse. IMO, that more likely indicates a production problem than a design flaw.
 
#9 ·
I heard the clunk on my first test ride. It was still there on the second 400 miles later but was much less noticeable. This may be something that gets better with time.
 
#10 ·
I have a bike with drive line lash or klunk. It is noticeable in low gears when throttle is applied and there is a lag before drive is taken up causing the bike to lurch. This lag/klunk was apparent on two bike out of four on a recent 3000 mile trip thru' Spain. It has become worse as miles increase but there is a but......

When I went for new tyres yesterday without pillion and no luggage the lag was less noticeable but still present.

As an aside slipping the clutch or playing the throttle differently does not get rid of the lag/clunk. In my judgement there is drive line lash and I can only speculate why some bike have it and some do not.

I have ridden bikes with and without lash/klunk as have my riding buddies thus eliminating rider/riding style.

Make what you want of it, it's not an issue for some but it is for others.
 
#11 ·
drive line clunk

Interesting one this. My 16 GT has a bit of it at 600 miles now. I have had all the BMW bikes made over the last 10 years more recently 1200 GSA and 1200 RT they too have a bit and it varies between bikes.

I have to say I thought this version would be ok Im probably being abit picky but 20k bike!!

What a bike though!
 
#12 ·
Yep, definitely a very noticeable "clunk" during my test ride. Disappointing, really, since other than some relatively minor other issues (a.) I found the rider's peg position quite uncomfortable-I'm average size and it was the low/regular seat b.) excessive engine heat coming from the left side near my knee c.) speedo difficult to read) it was probably the nicest bike I've ever ridden and about as close as I've gotten to the overall "perfect bike". Ummmmm, big decision coming up. My concern is that it's a serious design defect which could get worse with mileage. At a minimum, it's quite annoying for a bike of this calibre/price and definitely detracts from my riding experience/enjoyment. I'll continue to monitor this before I write the big check.
 
#13 ·
Kudos to Morton's BMW for recognizing the "clunk", and pulling their demo to investigate! In my experience, they are number 1... an excellent dealership. I think they will be able to provide feedback to BMW, and I have no doubt that BMW will solve the issue.

In all other respects (except for seat)... I think it's an EXCEPTIONAL bike. I still want mine, whenever it may be delivered! :)
 
#14 ·
Just did a test ride today, have experience with other K and R bikes, didn't notice any clunks or other unusual noises, will do another test in a week or so and pay more attention. Some also complained about the throttle, in my opinion it's just a new bike that I have to get accustomed, no throttle or fueling issues either. Great bike.
 
#15 ·
Drive train lash: Transmission clunk

I have now had my GT for a week and would like to share some of my observations relative to both the drive train lash and transmission clunk (very technocal descriptions indeed :)

My point of reference is my 2000 K1200RS which has low miles and is in immaculate condition.

Drive Train Lash:

In comparing the two I do notice that the K16GT "does" have drive train lash at low speeds and low gearing. Most notable in second, specifically when blipping the throttle to keep pace in slow traffic. The K1200RS has much less if not at all.

Transmission Clunk:

The K16GT has "slightly" more clunky movement than the K1200RS. The K1200RS just seems to be "tighter" overall.

These two observations are concerning given the cost and engineering that went into this bike. Would I still have purchased the K1600GT if I had known about the issue beforehand? A very definitive YES.

Will I keep my K1200RS, no as it is going to my Son, who promises me that I can take it for a ride anytime that I experience "twistie withdrawal" symptoms.

Cheers,

Mitch
 
#16 · (Edited)
Was that Morton's 1st or 2nd demo?

Their 1st demo's tranny was seriously fubar'd -- wouldn't shift above 3rd gear, and making a fair number of unpleasant sounds on Thurs., 5/5 (I know first hand -- I rode down to test ride, and found the 1st unit was discovered to be mucked up about an hour and a half before I arrived :(). Either a shift drum/selector or tranny shaft/gear issue. Either way, ugly -- open her up or replace the whole unit kinda stuff, it appeared.

Hoping to get a ride on a functioning unit this week!
 
#17 ·
That shouldn't be that big a deal. Isn't the transmission a "cassette" type? Pull one out - slap in a new one. Not cheap perhaps but fairly simple if my understanding is correct.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Sorta yes, sorta no.

The K16 does not have a true cassette transmission (IIRC, the S1000RR does). On the other hand, the K16 transmission and output flange bevel gears are packaged in a single housing. In theory, after opening up the right side to release the tranny input shaft from the clutch basket, and removing the starter motor and a bunch of other "stuff", and disconnecting the drive shaft (need to move the swingarm back?? don't know), the tranny/output housing could be removed.

So, do-able, but considerably more work than a true cassette tranny. On the other hand, not as bad as removing an engine and splitting the cases to get to the tranny on a typical transverse inline four.
 
#20 ·
Apparently the "clunk" is a loose input shaft snap ring. Communication from Morton's:

"The bike that you rode is no longer our demo bike. I want to say that the snap ring on the input shaft came off which ultimately led to that bike being unridable. That is why you felt a clunk. It finally just got stuck in third gear. So we have another demo that Jeff Massey rode out to our rally over the weekend and has over 500 miles on it now. With limited parts to fix the problem it will take us a little time to fix the issue."

No doubt BMW production will address the issue.
 
#21 ·
Apparently the "clunk" is a loose input shaft snap ring. Communication from Morton's:

"The bike that you rode is no longer our demo bike. I want to say that the snap ring on the input shaft came off which ultimately led to that bike being unridable. That is why you felt a clunk. It finally just got stuck in third gear. So we have another demo that Jeff Massey rode out to our rally over the weekend and has over 500 miles on it now. With limited parts to fix the problem it will take us a little time to fix the issue."

No doubt BMW production will address the issue.
Thats interesting:confused:
 
#24 ·
I just got done with a 2 hour test ride and the clunk is apparent when in second or third gear and the RPM's are low and that touchy throttle is feathered in traffic. I believe that is the touchiest throttle I have ever experienced. It's like a horse that hasn't been broken, you just can't hold this bike back:k16:
 
#26 ·
Did you try all three modes? Rode the GTL again today playing with all three modes and they are different with dynamic more sensitive. I prefered Road mode for around town. If it's raining I'll definatly use Rain mode very mellow (safer). I think the clunk, I'd call it more like a clack bordering on a clank, is the self energizing slipper clutch switching from engine driving to wheels driving (coasting in gear). I found if your easy on the throttle it's not apparent.
 
#25 ·
The GTL I rode had an Obvious clunk at low speed when coming on and off throttle. Sounded like slack in the driveline.
the alignment was also Way off on the bike you could see the handle bars pointing right as you rode straight.
Pointed out both to the dealer they just blew me off.
 
#29 ·
I'm having 2nd thoughts about this bike already because it just does not feel right, for me, anyway. The whole drive train and ride was lacking on so many levels for me. Your observation has me concerned more than ever.

I've ridden the GTL twice and the GT once, but yet to see the RED GT. The red is going to have to impress me quite a lot to over ride the gut feeling I'm developing at this point; the jury is still out.

I flew to see and ride the GT and was quite disappointed when ALL the demo bikes were silver. The GT is definitely the bike for me but I'm down to the color deciding it (or not) for me...........Oh, well.

:(
 
#28 ·
Mine had this until they changed the rear radius arm under warranty. They tightened up the final drive and it has not done that sine. There is an obvious fault with most of the first models which will no doubt be ironed out in time.
 
#31 ·
I've been following this thread since it started and am thinking I should mention something to my dealer about my bike. In 2nd, 3rd, and 4th especially, the "lash" is pretty apparent, not as much in 5th and almost non-existent in 6th. As many have stated, it makes itself known in 2nd or 3rd when trying to keep up in stop and go traffic. I've compensated for it with careful throttle inputs but it's sounding like this could be an issue addressable by BMW. When my bike is parked and off in 1st gear, I can roll it about 4 inches before it catches on one "end" or the "other".

For those that have brought it to the attention of your dealership, did you have any issues explaining the problem to the service techs? Did they know what you were talking about?
 
#34 ·
Dealing with Lash

By keeping pressure on the drive line you can take out or
keep it to a minimum. This is a matter of getting use to it.
The lash is most notable when hard deceleration and then
add hard acceleration. By applying forward torque (i.e. motor)
while still backward torque (applying brakes) all the lash can
be removed. Then when accelerating, there is no clunk or
hesitation.

This is how I dealt with it on my drive shaft bikes with lash
(K1200GT and VTX1300).
 
#36 ·
Based on a re-read of the thread and some nifty google searches, I think I'm going to wait and see. As some have indicated, the "lash" can be minimized with careful inputs and thinking back on it, my GS had some play in the drivetrain as well (I just "got used to it"). I may still mention it to the service manager when I go in at 3k miles.
 
#37 ·
driveline

Iv'e had shaft drive bikes for 35 years and my K1600 is the worst of the lot by a considerable margin. I purchased a Moto Guzzi 350cc on e bay that 26 years old, the gear lever travel is a mile long with false neutrals everywhere. Up and down through the box effortlessly with out a thought, just as it should be.
 
#38 ·
Iv'e had shaft drive bikes for 35 years and my K1600 is the worst of the lot by a considerable margin. I purchased a Moto Guzzi 350cc on e bay that 26 years old, the gear lever travel is a mile long with false neutrals everywhere. Up and down through the box effortlessly with out a thought, just as it should be.
You must have a defective bike! Mine shifts like a dream (up and down). The lash is totally avoidable. The slipper clutch is great. Get your bike fixed.