After reading another thread, it makes me pose the question..Just what IS the proper way to break in a GTL/GT? Or here's another question..How did you break in yours?
moose1169
I read the owners manual and followed the recommendations of the engineers that built the bike
I followed the instructions from my dealer, did what they said and it worked out perfectly.. Runs like a fine tuned F1 race car!!!
Follow the Manual's guidance -- but realize the guidance is very general and incomplete, consisting of basically rpm vs. mileage limits.
The most important thing in my experience with BMWs is to not "baby" the motor. That does NOT mean massively thrashing it, drag race style.
What it does mean is to vary the throttle position (and hence the load on the engine) a LOT. One of your objectives should be to frequently generate relatively high combustion chamber pressure so that the gas pressure will get behind the top piston ring to push is radially outward to scrub against the cylinder wall. This will accelerate ring seating and shorten the break-in period. Just droning down the road at a constant throttle position doesn't generate much pressure in the chamber (surprisingly little fuel/air is required to just maintain a steady speed, so opening the throttle to pack more air/fuel in is needed to reach good ring-scrubbing pressures).
EDIT: I went back and read the Rider's Manual break-in guidance -- it basically says what I said above -- vary, stay off constant speed highways, lots of hills, etc.
FWIW, my observations of a bunch of boxers and flying bricks over the years is consistent with this -- firmly run-in bikes would stop using any appreciable oil within ~6K miles (indicating good ring seating), while babied engines would take upwards of 20K miles before oil consumption started tapering off (if ever). The babied bikes tended to have more carbon deposits in the combustion chambers (due to the oil being drawn up past the un-fully-seated rings and being burned in the chamber), resulting in more frequent pinging issues.
HTH!
Mark
The most important thing in my experience with BMWs is to not "baby" the motor. That does NOT mean massively thrashing it, drag race style.
What it does mean is to vary the throttle position (and hence the load on the engine) a LOT. One of your objectives should be to frequently generate relatively high combustion chamber pressure so that the gas pressure will get behind the top piston ring to push is radially outward to scrub against the cylinder wall. This will accelerate ring seating and shorten the break-in period. Just droning down the road at a constant throttle position doesn't generate much pressure in the chamber (surprisingly little fuel/air is required to just maintain a steady speed, so opening the throttle to pack more air/fuel in is needed to reach good ring-scrubbing pressures).
EDIT: I went back and read the Rider's Manual break-in guidance -- it basically says what I said above -- vary, stay off constant speed highways, lots of hills, etc.
FWIW, my observations of a bunch of boxers and flying bricks over the years is consistent with this -- firmly run-in bikes would stop using any appreciable oil within ~6K miles (indicating good ring seating), while babied engines would take upwards of 20K miles before oil consumption started tapering off (if ever). The babied bikes tended to have more carbon deposits in the combustion chambers (due to the oil being drawn up past the un-fully-seated rings and being burned in the chamber), resulting in more frequent pinging issues.
HTH!
Mark
There's been a lot of discussion on this subject.
Back in May this is a thread with similar discussion.
http://www.k1600forum.com/forum/bmw-k1600-general-discussions/495-breaking-new-beast.html
Back in May this is a thread with similar discussion.
http://www.k1600forum.com/forum/bmw-k1600-general-discussions/495-breaking-new-beast.html
RPM's and loads all over the place, including short runs to redline. Lugging from 1000 RPM, the bike has 2300 miles on it now, and doesn't burn any oil yet. I will assume it won't, keeps running better each time I ride and the gas mileage is improving, so must be close to being broke in.
Followed the manual not exceeding 4000rpm till the run in service at 600 miles, then up to +1000 rpm per +100 mile done. Now at full revs on +1000 miles. Agree with not babying the engine. I am deliberately pushing the revs up during the running in period to the limit... I have to say now with full revs and good torque it is getting real quick! I am sure it will get better to as the engine really beds in... Peter
I agree with Mark. Mine worked out perfectly that way. I ran hard and easy. Not to baby it but got cylinders loaded and then clutched in for a short coast. Pain in the butt but the in the long run you will be happy. Back curvey roads is where I worked mine in. Doesn't use oil and runs perfectly.
FWIW - I picked mine up yesterday with a full tank of gas and 1 mile on the odometer.
Asked the local guys at the shop for some good roads to ride and the recommended "Trail of Tears" State Park followed by a ton of curvy/hilly back roads to the IL State Border. This was all done with my normal riding style . .not that aggressive, but powering on out of the corners, up the hills, etc.
Basically followed owners manual about nothing > 5000 rpm for first 181 miles, and then nothing > 6000 rpm's for remainder of 400 mile trip. I didn't drag race the bike, but once I hit 181 miles I did accelerate pretty brisky (maybe 1/2 throttle-3/4 throttle in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears) taking it upto just shy of 6000 rpm before shifting . . .really hard to NOT twist the throttle on this bike as it's so smooth powerwise.
I'm going to finish up the 600 miles today/tomorrow and then do the oil changes, etc.
Good Luck,
Dave
Asked the local guys at the shop for some good roads to ride and the recommended "Trail of Tears" State Park followed by a ton of curvy/hilly back roads to the IL State Border. This was all done with my normal riding style . .not that aggressive, but powering on out of the corners, up the hills, etc.
Basically followed owners manual about nothing > 5000 rpm for first 181 miles, and then nothing > 6000 rpm's for remainder of 400 mile trip. I didn't drag race the bike, but once I hit 181 miles I did accelerate pretty brisky (maybe 1/2 throttle-3/4 throttle in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears) taking it upto just shy of 6000 rpm before shifting . . .really hard to NOT twist the throttle on this bike as it's so smooth powerwise.
I'm going to finish up the 600 miles today/tomorrow and then do the oil changes, etc.
Good Luck,
Dave
If the bikes are run to the rev limiter at the factory do you really think they change the oil after that treatment ? That is another reason why I am having the dealer chang the oil before the bike is ever started when it comes out of the crate. Also how long did it sit in a ship somewhere exposed to various temps and humidity levels. I want to get rid of all the condensation and impurities of the initial start up. I do this initail dealer oil change on every vehicle I buy if it is 4 stroke boat motor, car or truck or motorcycle and I have NEVER had an oil burner or engine problem. The break in is as others stated, run it under load and vary the rpm and stay well under red line. Also I have seen other engines with the cylinder coating that BMW is using and it makes it impossible to hone the cylinders and install a new set of rings if the first ones don't seat properly.
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