My bike is a year old. The clutch fluid has gotten very dark. How often does it need to be changed? Has anyone changed their's? Where do you buy the replacement fluid?
mountainman
Huge bottle of BMW labeled mineral oil was $9 at local dealer fwiw. I'd think every two years would be more than enough. Just my .02
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I looked at the service schedule and don't see where replacement is a scheduled item. Merely inspection.
Don't know of a set time-change requirement either. My K13S (very similar actuation system) would darken the fluid over 1-2 years, but the change interval is likely more related to miles ridden / environmental conditions than to just calendar time.
Anyway, my initial K16 interval (YMMV) will be to change clutch fluid with the brake fluid after 1st year of service, then bi-annually based on the way I operate the bike. I will adjust interval if necessary based on inspection / operating results.
The first time you change clutch fluid you'll need the bleeder (aka"vent screw"p/n 32 72 7 695 221) as the bike comes with a plug, not a bleeder screw, or at least mine did. Also, be sure to use the called for mineral oil p/n 83 19 2 150 020. It comes in several sizes, but this p/n is the 250ml size and should be enough for a thorough clutch master/ line / actuating cylinder flush.
Anyway, my initial K16 interval (YMMV) will be to change clutch fluid with the brake fluid after 1st year of service, then bi-annually based on the way I operate the bike. I will adjust interval if necessary based on inspection / operating results.
The first time you change clutch fluid you'll need the bleeder (aka"vent screw"p/n 32 72 7 695 221) as the bike comes with a plug, not a bleeder screw, or at least mine did. Also, be sure to use the called for mineral oil p/n 83 19 2 150 020. It comes in several sizes, but this p/n is the 250ml size and should be enough for a thorough clutch master/ line / actuating cylinder flush.
I'll probably change mine out at least annually with the brake fluid. When I used to take my car to the track, the requirement was brake fluid flushed and renewed in the last 180 days. Maybe one of the track bums on here can chime in with any track requirement they know about? It would probably be overkill for most to change it that often but if I'm going to go off and ride it like a track bike from time to time, I think I'd want to maintain it like one. The clutch may or may not put heat on that fluid like the brakes but since it's basically the same task, why not swap it out and service it frequently with the brakes.
The clutch fluid is not brake fluid. It is a mineral based fluid and is a dark blue/green color when new. That is why it's darker than the brake fluid. There is no required change interval, supposed to be lifetime fluid. It does not absorb water like brake fluid but can not handle heat that is why it's not used in the brakes. The only time I plan to change is when I need a new clutch.
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Clutch fluid change
Just my .02, but caution on the no clutch oil maintenance necessary idea...
While it may not be hygroscopic, over time clutch fluid will pick up other contaminants from wear of internal seal lips and/or metal to metal contact from pistons to actuator bore walls. There may also be other chemical changes it experiences in various operating environments.
Just changed my clutch fluid because previous experience on K1300S showed it was getting discolored / contaminated at one + year intervals - came out cloudy, dark green (new fluid is a bright blue and somewhat translucent). This first change on the K1600 was in the interest of getting out any wear-in particles or manufacturing swarf as well as getting a data point for what the best change interval would be.
Cost to flush the system was 6 oz. of BMW mineral fluid, the vent screw (one-time cost) and 20 minutes of my time. After seeing darkening and discoloration at a little under a year since new-make, I will stay on a 1 year interval for a while. In exchange for this regular care I will likely never have a problem with the clutch hydraulics. I am also really pleased at BMWs use of mineral oil instead of brake fluid.
As an owner of a K1200RS, I know the value of regular clutch hydraulic system maintenance. If neglected on that bike (uses brake fluid, not mineral oil), you could eventually experience the fun of 11 shop hours to R&R the clutch slave cylinder, also probably replacing the clutch disk, and the engine/trans seals ruined by the leaking brake fluid from the slave - big $$$$ that can be avoided with a small amount of maintenance.
Also recall the FD issues on the early slant fours that were caused by the "lifetime fill' of FD oil. Subsequent slant four FDs are proving very reliable now that their FD fluid change is called out on a regular schedule.
Good fluid condition is one of the first lines of defense in mechanical system health. It can be an important analysis tool too.
One last fringe benefit of regular preventive maintenance is the fact that you may find a non-routine item while doing a routine task - in other words, finding something else that needs fixing while you're in the area. During this job, I found one of the 4 slave cylinder attach screws completely loose with the washer free to spin. It was slightly weeping from the loose lower forward screw area. Caught it early and retorqued to 44 lb/in (5nm); found the other 3 at correct torque. Note these are aluminum screws - don't overtorque if checking (use an acurate torque wrench).
As always, YMMV, insert appropriate disclaimer here ______, etc.
Just my .02, but caution on the no clutch oil maintenance necessary idea...
While it may not be hygroscopic, over time clutch fluid will pick up other contaminants from wear of internal seal lips and/or metal to metal contact from pistons to actuator bore walls. There may also be other chemical changes it experiences in various operating environments.
Just changed my clutch fluid because previous experience on K1300S showed it was getting discolored / contaminated at one + year intervals - came out cloudy, dark green (new fluid is a bright blue and somewhat translucent). This first change on the K1600 was in the interest of getting out any wear-in particles or manufacturing swarf as well as getting a data point for what the best change interval would be.
Cost to flush the system was 6 oz. of BMW mineral fluid, the vent screw (one-time cost) and 20 minutes of my time. After seeing darkening and discoloration at a little under a year since new-make, I will stay on a 1 year interval for a while. In exchange for this regular care I will likely never have a problem with the clutch hydraulics. I am also really pleased at BMWs use of mineral oil instead of brake fluid.
As an owner of a K1200RS, I know the value of regular clutch hydraulic system maintenance. If neglected on that bike (uses brake fluid, not mineral oil), you could eventually experience the fun of 11 shop hours to R&R the clutch slave cylinder, also probably replacing the clutch disk, and the engine/trans seals ruined by the leaking brake fluid from the slave - big $$$$ that can be avoided with a small amount of maintenance.
Also recall the FD issues on the early slant fours that were caused by the "lifetime fill' of FD oil. Subsequent slant four FDs are proving very reliable now that their FD fluid change is called out on a regular schedule.
Good fluid condition is one of the first lines of defense in mechanical system health. It can be an important analysis tool too.
One last fringe benefit of regular preventive maintenance is the fact that you may find a non-routine item while doing a routine task - in other words, finding something else that needs fixing while you're in the area. During this job, I found one of the 4 slave cylinder attach screws completely loose with the washer free to spin. It was slightly weeping from the loose lower forward screw area. Caught it early and retorqued to 44 lb/in (5nm); found the other 3 at correct torque. Note these are aluminum screws - don't overtorque if checking (use an acurate torque wrench).
As always, YMMV, insert appropriate disclaimer here ______, etc.
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